Our trip to Mongolia was fascinating in a lot of ways. One of the most intriguing parts of our itinerary? Visiting a nomadic family. A huge percentage of Mongolians–and Kazakhs living in Mongolia, it turns out–are living a traditional, nomadic life. To me, that means moving from place to place periodically, never staying in the same place twice. But that’s not true! That is a misconception I’m about to debunk for you. Here’s what it’s like to visit a nomadic family in Mongolia.
Where do they live?
The nomadic families in Mongolia live on the vast plains, the steppe, the Gobi Desert, etc. Roughly 1.5 million people live in the Mongolian capital city of Ulaanbaatar. The majority of the other 2.5 million? They live in traditional Ger, or yurts, all across the rest of the country. The family we visited lives about two hours west of Ulaanbaatar, in the Nalaikh Province. We stayed at a hotel near the Genghis Khaan statue, about an hour away by car.
More here: My Honest Review of Our Trip with Vacations Mongolia
Do they live in the Ger (yurt) year round?
Not necessarily! Some nomadic families probably do, but the family we met lives in their Ger only in the hotter months of the year. In the winter, late fall, and early spring, they live in a more permanent structure. Many nomadic families live within a mile or so from winter to summer, not hundreds of miles apart with the seasons as you might assume. I thought nomads move from place to place, never settling in the same place twice, so I was surprised to learn that’s not the case! We saw that the family we visited lives in an area behind a hill in the colder months, which blocks the wind in the harsh Mongolian winters. As the seasons change to hotter weather, they move their Ger around the side of the hill, taking advantage of the breezes in the summer to keep their home cooler. The whole distance was perhaps just 150-200 yards.
Keep reading: The Top 7 Things to Do in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
What do they eat?
They truly live off their land. Mongolian food is heavily dependent on meat, vegetables, and noodles or bread. The family we met cooked in sheep fat, instead of butter or oil, and while they certainly can go to a store if they need to, there wasn’t one particularly nearby. When we arrived, they had put out fried bread, homemade cheese, milk tea, and a couple of store-bought sweets. For lunch we had traditional Mongolian tsuivan, which featured homemade noodles, beef, and vegetables.
Fair warning: The traditional way that Mongolian and Kazakh nomadic families eat is from a single communal bowl or plate. The meal is set in front of everyone around one table, and everyone eats from it with their own spoon or fork. Because our guides knew this was not usual for Americans or most other nationalities, they offered us our own bowls, which we gladly used.
Another note: I had read about the traditional airag, a Mongolian fermented horse milk beverage. It’s usually offered to guests, and it’s considered rude not to accept and drink it. What no one told me, however, was that it’s a summer drink, and we visited too early in the year for it. So, if you’re visiting in summer, expect to be offered airag, but if not, you’re in the clear!
(Coming soon) Read next: The Best Things We Ate in Mongolia
What is there to do when you visit?
Not all nomadic families are the same, so you may have a different experience than we did. We got to visit wth the family in their home, as well as see inside one of their traditional Ger. We were able to talk with them through translation from our guides at Vacations Mongolia, Jansaya and Seilbek, which was great; otherwise we wouldn’t have been able to talk at all. My daughter Iris and I got to learn how to make their fried bread–which Iris was far better at than I was!
After our cooking lesson, my traveling companion and I went horseback riding on their Takhi, the unique, Mongolian horse. These are the last truly wild horses in the world, but nomads have domesticated some of them for their own purposes. This was one of my most favorite things we did on the entire trip. The landscape is so dramatic, and to see it on horseback was very special.
Where was my toddler? playing with the baby sheep, of course! Jansaya from Vacations Mongolia and one of the family’s children took Iris to play outside while we rode horses. She had the most fun, and I got to get a picture with her on the horse with me when we got back.
(Coming soon) Read on: Our Favorite Animals in Mongolia
Can I stay in a Ger?
Yes! Our original itinerary included a stay with a nomadic family, in a Ger. But because of the rustic nature of that, I couldn’t imagine navigating baths and bathroom necessities with a toddler. But yes, you can stay in a Ger if you want the authentic, nomadic family experience! You will have all your meals there and get to experience the farm life at all times of the day and night. The nomadic family had four or five Ger set up for guests, and it’s one of the ways they make a living. We met other people who had stayed the night, even a family with a small child! It was just too close to camping for me, personally.
(Coming soon) Keep reading: Tips for Your Trip to Mongolia
Want more? Check out my dedicated Mongolia Page!
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