I told only a very few people that I planned to go to Syria—with toddler in tow, no less! Not because I was scared or ashamed or worried about what people would think. I kept the info under the radar because I didn’t want my parents or well-meaning friends to worry. Syria is not exactly a relaxing vacation destination, and at the time I visited, the ceasefire and negotiations between Iran and the US and Israel was still very much in flux. So, here’s the long answer to your burning question: Is Syria safe to visit?
Did I feel safe traveling as a woman and mother?
Yes! I never felt at all uncomfortable or unwelcome, no matter where we traveled in Syria. In fact, having my daughter with me made every Syrian go totally soft! Everyone wanted to say hello to us, every staff member at our hotels wanted to play with my girl and make her giggle. I dressed conservatively, as I always do when traveling in the Middle East, but the only time I was required to cover my head was during our visit to the large mosque in Damascus. Everyone I spoke to asked me where we were from and immediately said, “Welcome,” when I told them we were from the United States.
More here: What to Know Before Your First Trip to Syria
Did I go by myself?
No. I was there with my business partner from Elevation Journeys, our Christian travel company. He’s been living, traveling, and working in the Middle East for well over a decade, and he’s a man, so I definitely had some extra “protection” having him with me most of the time. Would I have gone to Syria solo at a different time of my life? Sure. But with my daughter traveling with me, I did feel more secure traveling with a male. My daughter and I ventured out for a couple of walks on our own to find coffee, get outside, look for cats and dogs, etc., but for the most part, we weren’t on our own very much.
Even when my partner wasn’t with me, I was usually with a female tour guide and/or male driver. Being anywhere with locals is always safer, even if it’s just because they know local traffic patterns. I loved that my tour guide was a woman, and she was amazing. Her name is Touleen, and she works with Syrian Guides. Our driver was Khalid, and he was such a sweetheart! We had the best time together, and I knew we were not just safe, but well taken care of. I didn’t have to even think about what restaurants were clean, what time to do things, how to navigate the souk (market), or worry about getting lost on the small, winding streets.
Also helpful: The Best Reasons Why It’s Okay for Single Parents to Travel with Help
Are Al Qaida or ISIS still around?
This was the only uncomfortable part about visiting Syria for me. The short answer is yes. But, like all things, the long answer is more nuanced and complicated. There are checkpoints at the entry of every city, manned by the National Security Guard. They carry rifles and definitely look like ISIS or Al Qaida, although of course I can’t confirm that. Our tour guide and driver never acted like we should be worried about this, however, so I didn’t worry. One thing to know about the internal fighting in Syria is that it’s never brought on by or directed toward foreigners.
(Coming soon) Read next: Your Guide to Tipping in Syria
Is there a lot of crime in the cities?
No. We asked our guide and driver about this, and they said definitely not. There may be some pickpocketing in the souk (as in any crowded market), but in general, there is very little crime in the major cities and tourist areas in Syria! I even overpaid for a couple of fattayer (like small pizzas), and the shop owner gave the extra money back to me. He totally could have pocketed it, and I wouldn’t have known the difference, but it was like that never even crossed his mind. I found Syrians to be good, kind, honest people. Sure, there will always be bad seeds, but Syrians are tired of fighting, tired of bad things, ready to be back to normal.
(Coming soon) Read more: What’s the Food Like in Syria?
Isn’t the whole country in ruins?
Well, you’d think so if you watched the news during the worst of the war a few years ago. But that’s not at all the case. Yes, there is devastating destruction, particularly in Aleppo. Roman ruins that had been standing 2000 years or more were blown up during the war. However, Damascus, parts of Aleppo, and so many villages throughout the country are still standing, still beautiful, still operating. Damascus, especially, truly blew me away.
Hot take: Ruined: Beauty in the Broken Places
What scams are common in Syria?
There are some online scams, like visa services that are not official, and a military imposter scam where supposed “military members” ask for money transfers or gifts cards. But on the ground, in the major cities in Syria, there is very little in the way of scams. There may be some petty theft every once in a while, but generally, crime, especially toward tourists, is very low. That said, there is a possibility that you’ll get some inflated prices in taxis, or at some gift shops where prices aren’t marked. I got quoted $700 USD for a mosaic handbag, which I knew shouldn’t have cost that much, and they definitely wouldn’t have quoted that price to a local Syrian. Pro tip: Shop where prices are marked, or let your tour guide help you find a reputable shop and give you advice to how to haggle.
My advice is the same as I give everywhere: Be smart, be aware of your surroundings, don’t flash your money, act like you know what you’re doing, and don’t put your phone or money in easy-to-access places. Act as you would in your home country, but slightly more alert because you’re in an unfamiliar location. Be self-aware, but don’t be suspicious of everyone you see.
Keep reading: How to Spend a Month Abroad with a Toddler (even as a single parent!)
Want more? Check out my dedicated Syria Page!
Love this post? Pin it for later!
