Surprise! I went to Syria with my toddler daughter. Would I do it again? Yes. And I plan to! That said, I knew literally nothing about traveling in Syria before I decided to go. Thankfully, my business partner and travel buddy for this trip had been before and gave me a heads-up on the important things, namely visas, money issues, and border crossings. I learned an awful lot in real time, and I made notes for you, too. Here is what to know before your first trip to Syria.
Visas
Most nationalities will need a visa to visit Syria, including Europeans and Americans. My business partner has Spanish citizenship, so he paid $75 for his visa. My daughter and I have American citizenship, and we paid $200… Per person. Hopefully that will decrease soon, now that sanctions have been lifted, but as of June 2026, that was the going rate for US visas.
There are two ways to get your visa, but which one you need depends on your mode of transportation. If you will be flying into Aleppo or Damascus, you will need to get your visa 3-4 weeks in advance, though a legitimate tour company. If you will be entering at a land crossing from Lebanon or Jordan, you can get your visa on arrival, at the border crossing checkpoint. Your visa fee will need to be paid in cash, in US dollars. More and updated information can be found here on the Syrian Guides Website.
Note: If you have an Israeli stamp in your passport, or if you are an Israeli citizen, you will not be able to obtain a visa for Syria at this time.
More here: Is it Safe to Visit Syria?
What to Expect at the Land Crossing
We entered Syria at the Jordanian border, and it was a lot. There were five checkpoints and passport control on the Jordanian side, and then another four (or five–I lost count) checkpoints, plus passport control again on the Syrian side. This Syrian passport control checkpoint is the place where you’ll pay for your visa on arrival. You’ll have to get out of your car and go into the passport control buildings for both countries, so pack your patience and jump through the hoops. There are some nice photo ops on the Syrian side once you get through passport control!
Keep reading: How to Spend a Month Abroad with a Toddler (even as a single parent)
Money
This is very important: At the time I’m writing this, in summer 2026, Syria is cash only. That means you cannot pay for anything with a credit or debit card. Yes, even hotels have to be paid for in cash, often upon check-in. Hotels also require payment in US dollars, not Syrian pounds, and they usually require crisp bills with no tears and no visible signs of wear. When you withdraw your money from your bank, check the bills before you leave, and ask for new bills in exchange for any old ones you receive.
Just as important: You will have to make sure that you bring enough cash with you for your entire trip. You will not be able to use a Syrian ATM unless you have a Syrian bank account. You will not be able to get more money once you are in Syria, so make sure you know how much your hotels and activities will cost before you leave. Hopefully this will change in the coming years, but at the time we visited, cash was the only option.
Daily expenses: I also recommend having at least $100-$200 in cash, per day of your trip. This will pay for food, tips, and any shopping you might want to do in Syria. You can exchange one day’s worth of cash for Syrian pounds at any currency exchange location, of which there are many in cities like Aleppo and Damascus. Sometimes you can pay for things like meals and souvenirs in dollars and receive Syrian pounds back, but it’s very easy to get money exchanged at an official currency exchange location.
Syrian pounds: Syria is in a huge transition period at the time I’m writing this, in summer 2026. When we visited in June, they were still using both the old Syrian money and new Syrian money. Most shops and restaurants quoted prices in the old money. The conversion is easy, though: Just delete the last two zeros from the total. For example, 10,000 in the old money, becomes 100 in the new money. And 7,000 becomes just 70. It takes a while to get used to it, so if you’re not sure about whether something is in the old or new money, ask your guide or even the shop keeper. I found them to be very honest. (Much more so than in other countries I’ve visited in the region.)
Also helpful: The Ultimate Guide to Travel and Your Money
City Checkpoints
There are checkpoints at the entrance to each city you’ll come to while driving in Syria. National Security Officers man each checkpoint coming and going from each city, all wielding large guns. It was unnerving at first, but I was surprised at how quickly we got used to the procedure. Our driver either spoke with the officers or got waved through each checkpoint, and he and our tour guide never acted like there was anything to worry about. Just be aware that this is the norm, so you’re not surprised or worried.
More here: The Top 7 Things to Consider When Booking Flights
Your Cell Phone Won’t Work
Nope, not even with T-Mobile! You will have to get a Syrian SIM card upon arrival, which you can do at a variety of places around the cities. It was a very easy process, and I got great service with SyriaTel, a local cell phone company that I can personally recommend. I got an eSIM card at a great rate because they were running a deal. They were able to pass that deal along to me, even though I don’t have a SyriaTel account or citizenship in Syria. There are other companies, of course, but this is the one multiple locals recommended!
(Coming soon) Read next: All the Food We Ate in Syria
Language
It may come as no surprise that Arabic is the official language of Syria. However, you might be interested to learn that Kurdish is also widely spoken, and Aramaic is spoken in a few communities in the mountains outside of Damascus. In fact, only two places in the world still speak Aramaic, which is the language Jesus spoke. They are both in Syria.
(Coming soon) Read more: Your Guide to Tipping in Syria
What’s there?
So, why would someone visit Syria, a former State Sponsor of Terror and country that’s been war-torn for decades? Well, it’s not for everyone. I, however, loved seeing the Roman ruins in Bosra and Apamea, and there are more in Palmyra and elsewhere.
The unique Christian sites also fascinated me, and I think other Christians will want to visit them as well. For example, there is a church visitors can go to that marks the place where Paul was blinded on the Road to Damascus. You can also visit Ananais’s home in Damascus, where Paul was converted from Judaism to Christianity. You can hear the Lord’s Prayer recited in Aramaic at a monastery in Maalaoula, see a Crusader’s Castle in Homs, and more.
Looking for a foodie destination? I’ve eaten local cuisines all over the world, and Aleppo blew me away with their food scene. I kid you not, I had at least two of the best meals of my life in Aleppo. Damascus is home to some of the most amazing coffee shops in the world. Even the street food is amazing. Syria is so much more than ruins and destruction.
Keep reading: Why Single Parents Should Travel with Their Kids
Who is Visiting Syria these Days?
Believe it or not, the number one nationality for tourism to Syria is American, and number two is British. Many Americans whose families fled Syria during the War are now starting to go visit, either to see family still in the country or just to see where they came from. And some, like my business partner and me, are just curious to see this place we sort of never thought we’d be allowed to visit. We met several Americans, Canadians, Brits, and other nationalities while walking around in Damascus and Alappo, and we all wanted to know each other’s stories and reasons for visiting. The stories are many, the reasons are valid.
Read on: Three Things Single Parents Need to Know about International Travel with Their Kids
Want more? Check out my dedicated Syria Page!
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