What’s the one thing every culture on earth has in common? They all eat food. It’s different everywhere, but all people need to eat, making it an integral part of life in any culture. I love experiencing a new place through their food, especially when I can do that with locals. On our first trip to Syria, we got to do just that! We enjoyed some of the best food I’ve ever had, at restaurants that would excel anywhere in the world. Here is your sneak peek at the best food we ate in Syria!
Bosra
We crossed the border from Jordan into Syria and drove straight to Bosra, one of the most stunning and intact examples of a Roman Theatre I’ve ever seen. After meeting our guide and driver for the week and touring the ruins, we grabbed dinner at a local restaurant before starting the two-hour drive from there to Damascus. We ate shawarma with fries and pickled veggies, and it was awesome. I was not a fan of the massive side of mayo, but eagerly ate the rest and loved it. Would 100% recommend after a couple of hours walking around in the Syrian heat of the afternoon.
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Damascus
Damascus shocked me. The Old City is completely adorable. The people are friendly and kind. The restaurants and cafes are classy, quirky, moody, and fun. I loved the whole vibe of the city, and I already can’t wait to go back! We spent the bulk of our trip here, so we got to sample a lot of incredible food and amazing restaurants. Here is your sampler platter.
Beit Al Wali Hotel Breakfast
Our first two nights in Damascus were spent at Beit Al Wali, one of the nicest hotels in the city, if not the country. It’s traditional Middle Eastern in design, with large courtyards in the middle of the historic homes that have been made into this hotel. Breakfast was an event each morning, complete with all the traditional items: Falafel with pickled vegetables, sweet halva, spicy stuffed eggplant, tomatoes, cucumbers, cheeses, meat, labneh, hummus, more cheese, olives, and omelette with cheese. The breakfast was the same both days, and I wasn’t mad about it. And I definitely did not leave hungry!
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Chandelier Restaurant
My business partner and I went out to a place he’d been to before, and he liked it so much, he wanted me to try it, too. It was quirky and mis-matched in a fun way, and the staff working there thought Iris was the best thing ever. (They’re right!) We tried all the most traditional items on the menu, including the fattoush salad, muhammra, hummus, and an eggplant dish that was different from babaganouj, but was just as tasty. The new item for me was the Saj. We were meant to cook the bread, similar to tortillas, over the convex metal cook top, then spread the cooked bread with the accompanying labneh (yogurt dip), olive tapenade, and sesame sauce.
Read on: What to Know Before Your First Trip to Syria
Al Nawfara Cafe and the Storyteller of Damascus
One of the essential Damascene experiences you need to have? Drink coffee or tea with the Storyteller of Damascus. This is an event that happens at least twice a week at Al Nawfara Cafe. The Storyteller keeps oral tradition alive in this cafe in the Old City. The tea wasn’t anything special, but my friend enjoyed her Turkish coffee, and we had fun listening to the Storyteller, even if we couldn’t understand what he was saying!
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Naranj
This restaurant is reputed as the nicest (and most expensive) in Damascus. It was truly an experience, and next time I’ll be sure to dine on the rooftop terrace–when it’s not summertime. I wasn’t a fan of the toasted Syrian bread and accompanying spreads, but everything else was amazing. The Damascene mixed-berry juice was a favorite for Iris, and my lamb-stuffed zucchini in cream sauce was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. We ate until we were overfull, but when they brought out the platter of traditional sweets, I couldn’t help but wish I’d saved a little room!
Helpful info: Is It Safe to Visit Syria?
Fattayer
We had fattayer–similar to small pizzas–twice while in Damascus: Once at a small fattayer shop in the Old City, and once on the way out of town at a gas station. Both were amazing! They are baked fresh, so they’re warm and soft as soon as you get them, and they can come with an assortment of toppings. My favorites? Cheese, meat, and za’atar. I would go back to either of these–the hole in the wall or the gas station–to get this traditional street food again any time!
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Aleppo
So, my first impression of Aleppo was destruction. Lots of bombing sites, lots of semi-recent earthquake destruction, lots of hotels and other businesses closed indefinitely–or forever. But then we got to the heart of the city: Its people and its food. Known for spicy Aleppo peppers, this city is a little-known foodie gem. I seriously had at least two of the best meals of my life here. Don’t let the war destruction keep you away. Aleppo is bouncing back, and its foodie scene is one reason why.
Beroea Restaurant
This was the best place to have dinner after a long drive from Damascus. Not only did the restaurant have an amazing look and vibe, the food was incredible. And the view! We ate on the covered rooftop terrace with a view of the Citadel on the hill. 100% would recommend. This is also one of the best meals I’ve ever had. The grape leaves (yalanji) were amazing. The majool (lamb burger stuffed with cheese cooked inside Syrian bread) was awesome. But the surprise star? The toshka. I’d never had this before, but I’d like to have it every day for the rest of my life. It’s just meat and cheese melted inside Syrian bread, but it’s so much tastier than just that! My daughter’s favorite? The massive mango juice. It was almost as big as she is!
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Argon Cafe
I was not expecting this! Let’s just say my morning coffee at the hotel was not very good, so I asked my tour guide if there was a place to grab a coffee on our way to visit the Citadel. When I ordered a mocha for myself and a strawberry juice for my daughter, I was completely caught off-guard when the beautiful drinks in the photo below appeared! This sidewalk cafe across the street from the Citadel boasts a great view, fancy coffee, and sweet service. All the people working here were men, probably in their late teens or early 20s, and they all wanted to play with Iris. They fed her marshmallows and gave her a silk rose, and gave me some time to have an adult conversation with my friend and tour guide Touleen while we enjoyed our coffees. Did my daughter end up with strawberry juice on her dress? Sure. But did I mind? Not really. It was almost too small anyway.
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Sisi Cafe
Okay, so this is the other best meal of my life in Aleppo. Not only is this place absolutely gorgeous, there is a cave below the restaurant for a vibey meal or private party, and the food is beyond delicious. We came here because my guide and driver said I needed to try the cherry kebab, since I like lamb and this particular lamb dish is famous in Aleppo. They were right: It’s now my favorite food! I also got to try Sisi’s version of toshka, and it might have even been better than the previous one. We ate everything family style so we could try it all, including kebab orfaly, which is a sausage with cheese; Sisi’s house salad, complete with dried figs and walnuts; muhammara and babaganouj; the softest Syrian bread I’d eaten during the whole trip; and of course pomegranate and peach juices. Iris got very into the toshka this time, as well as the juices!
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Mahrousseh Sweets
The one downside of all the delicious meals? There was never room for dessert. So, on our way out of Aleppo enroute to the airport, we made one final stop: Mahrousseh Sweets. It’s famous in Aleppo, and when you walk in, you can see why. They have everything from traditional pistachio pastries to gelato to patisserie-style desserts. We got a sampler of the traditional pistachio pastries, and it was so much more than we could eat! I only wish I’d been able to bring some home for my dad, who loves pistachio! I will absolutely be back for more on our next trip to Aleppo.
Read next: The Best Souvenirs from Syria
Want more? Check out my dedicated Syria Page!
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